After much deliberation, much procrastination, not very much planning and definitely not very much organisation, we managed to book last minute flights to Myanmar. Before this trip, I knew I wanted to go but had only ever met one person who had been before so I was going in a bit blind but, like everything else on this trip, I was just going to hope for the best. I have met a lot of people along the way who have been recently and said it was one of their favourite places so I simply couldn’t miss it. We sorted our online Visa’s for 50USD – the first curve ball. It was way more expensive than I had anticipated but isn’t it always? We managed to get our return flights from Bangkok for around £60 so we clawed some money back there. The flight is only an hour from Bangkok – easy! We arrived in Yangon in the evening and headed straight to our hostel, Little Monkey Hostel, in downtown Yangon. Our taxi driver from the airport was ace – he taught us all of our basics for speaking Burmese. It’s not an easy language to pick up and the notes I wrote in my phone to help me remember it all, on reflection, are hilarious. I’m convinced I am terrible at it because whenever I attempt to say anything they just laugh! We settled into our hostel and got an early night so we could make the most of our time here. Bad start. Bed bugs. Again. Despite the sleeping tablet I had taken I got woken up by them and when I got out of my bed I could literally see them crawling. Absolutely vile. There was no one around to do anything about it so I sat in a chair outside the room for a good 3 hours trying not to shred off my skin until someone came back to the reception. They moved us rooms and called in pest control however subsequent research suggests this may not be the last time this happens in Myanmar – deep joy! 😒
Our first day we spent getting a feel for the area and visiting the Bogyoke Aung Sang Market. The architecture is beautiful – French colonial inspired buildings with ornate balconies, bright colours and lots of hustle and bustle. The first morning I watched an old lady on her 4th floor balcony ringing a bell attached to a long string. I then watched the street vendor below spring into action preparing food which was then attached to the long string in a bag and the lady hoisted up her breakfast. The ultimate delivery service for street food. The market was unlike any others I have visited on this trip. Never have I seen so much gold and gems in all my life. It would seem Myanmar is pretty rich in jade, rubies and gold. Every shape, size, colour! I’m told that a lot of the jade in China is actually from Myanmar – not China as we are all lead to believe. Another thing it is rich in is bettel – a somewhat less desirable item, for me anyway. The incessant “hawking” and spitting on the street makes me die inside a little each time I see/hear it and the streets are splattered red everywhere you look. I saw it in the Philippines where the mountain guides used it to give them an energy “boost” but it seems to be a lot more common here and is seemingly very addictive and also bad for you. I found out the hard way what goes into it. 🤦🏽♀️ Whilst walking home from the market I stopped to watch a lady rolling the leaves. From what I could gather the leaf was spread with a white paste – lime paste, then a sprinkling of spices (cardamom or cloves), chewing tobacco, a bettel nut and a luminous green looking drop of peppermint oil. It’s then all rolled up into a little parcel. Then she handed it to me. I didn’t know what to do. I panicked and didn’t want to seem rude since she had gone to the trouble of making it…..so I put it in my mouth. First fail. I tried to chew. Second fail. A group of locals sat in a truck nearby thought this was hilarious! The nut was literally impossible to chew but as I bit through the leaf all the other contents spilled out into my mouth in a particularly unpleasant manner. The taste wasn’t actually that offensive but I was trying so hard not to gag and also didn’t want to be spitting a gob full of slop into the street. So I did my best to thank the lady and walked off, trying not to be sick, until I could find somewhere to spit this stuff. I’m aware that it seriously stains your teeth bright red and as you probably know I’m a little precious about my teeth so I needed to get this stuff out ASAP! A skip. Classy as ever. Not an experience I care to repeat, even out of politeness!
That evening we decided to venture to the famous Shwedagon Pagoda for sunset. We missed the sunset due to the unbelievable traffic in this city but that didn’t deter us. The pagoda was every bit as spectacular as I had hoped. 105 metres tall, covered from top to bottom in gold, crowned with a 74 carat diamond and housing 8 hairs from the 4th Buddha. It is said to be the most sacred Buddhist stupa in all of Myanmar and dates back to between the 6th & 10th Century. The following day we decided to make our way to The Golden Rock and “keep it local” by getting only local transportation and not a taxi for $100. We cheated the first bit by getting a taxi to the bus station and it was truly terrifying when we arrived. As we pulled into the vast bus station, we were literally surrounded by men trying to sell us bus tickets. It was like something out of the Walking Dead – men with what looked like blood stained teeth (from the bettel) clawing away at the car shouting and yelling! We were the only white people to be seen and they were literally grabbing hold of the car as we drove past. We were so scared to get out but when we eventually did we had no trouble at all getting a bus ticket to where we needed to go. A couple of hours on a relatively decent bus and we arrived in the small town of Kinpun and we were directed to a truck station over the road for our lift up to the top of the mountain. We had intended on walking up but the bus took so long to get there that we just didn’t have time so truck stop it was. Nothing could have prepared us for what was to come. 45 of us were crammed into the back of a pick up truck with small wooden benches. There was barely room to move or even breathe and it was pouring with rain. 45 minutes of pouring rain, ridiculously winding roads, people spitting bettel and throwing up in bags, we arrived at the top, paid out fee to get to the pagoda and carried on walking to the top. Complete cloud cover! Couldn’t see a thing. Wonderful. We had just spent near on 7 hours getting here and couldn’t see a bastard thing! Luckily for us, someone was looking out for us and for about 10 minutes, the sun came out and burned away all the clouds and we had a tiny window with some incredible views! Legend has it that the Golden Rock is held in its precarious position by a single strand of Buddha’s hair, having been brought to its current location by a boat, which itself turned to stone and remains nearby, now known at the Kyaukthaban Pagoda, meaning Stone Boat Stupa.After all the effort we went to to get here we had very little time before we had to get the terror truck back down the hill to get our bus back to Yangon. It worked out much cheaper getting local public transport but for the amount of time I almost wish we had just got a taxi!! Our final day in Yangon we paid a visit to the National Museum. On our walk there we got absolutely drenched in the monsoon rains and also a tidal wave from a passing bus. I had to physically wring out my trousers and bra! 🤦🏽♀️ Needless to say the walk around the air conditioned museum was a little chilly and it was very difficult to understand what everything was because there was nothing in English. Our final Yangon stop was a quick visit to the Chauk-Htat-Gyi Reclining Buddha. We headed back to our terrifying bus station again to head up north to our next destination, Ngapali Beach.
Side note: Always do your transport research before leaving.
Our bus to Ngapali Beach was relatively painless although chucking it down with rain again as seems to be norm now every time we have to get off a bus in the middle of the night!! We got to our very questionable hotel which equated to a double bed crammed into a shoebox sized room made of paper. The weather for the whole time we were there was pretty awful so we didn’t get much time at the beach. Although it was beautiful, it was also incredibly spoilt by the sheer amount of litter which is so typical of so many places in Asia. The artwork from the tiny crabs on the beach definitely helped make up for it though! Our bus journey away from the beach to Bagan was somewhat less simple. We had failed to research enough beforehand to realise that the easiest way to get from Ngapali to Bagan is to go back via Yangon. Epic fail. Determined not to retrace our steps and waste time we went local again. It started off with a minivan for 5 hours which was fine. Then we boarded the death bus at Pyay for the remaining 12 hours of our journey. “Wow – that must have been a long way” I hear you say. Negative. It was about 167 miles in total and took us 17 hours. 12 of which we were sat on wooden benches with our feet on giant bags of crops. The driver looked to be about 12 (at best) and was completely off his face on bettel. The most alarming thing was watching him pray before we set off. I definitely felt like I should have been praying too – to anyone who would listen! What followed was a the longest, most painful and uncomfortable journey ever! More hawking and spitting, more bettel, more throwing up in bags, more winding mountain roads, more middle of the night stop offs, more horrific squat toilet stops and again being unceremoniously dumped in the middle of nowhere (allegedly a “bus station”) in the middle of the night by ourselves! When we finally made it to our hotel it was like we had hit the absolute jackpot. Something I have dearly missed since the day I left home. The holy grail of hotel rooms. A bath!!! Never in my life have I been more excited for a bath!! Even if it was sized for hobbits. My alarm went off at 4:15am and we were both so excited we leapt out of bed to get ready. We collected our E-bikes and headed out to find a good spot to watch the sunrise! We headed to one particular temple that we had in mind, Law Ka Ou Shuang, and when we got there we found it was closed and all locked up! Not only that but there was the most horrific noise coming from inside. Dogs fighting. We backed off to leave only to realise we were being followed by one of the dogs, who was carrying a very tiny, now very dead kitten in its mouth! It was so sad! On looking back we realised they had killed another tiny kitten inside. We were traumatised! Not such a great start but nothing was going to ruin our day, also Ceri’s birthday! We headed across the road to the next nearest Pagoda and climbed up the steep brick steps to the top. There was a little ledge you could just about sit on to watch the sun rise over the incredible planes. It was beyond spectacular. No hot air balloons as it is out of season here now but still one of the most stunning places I have ever seen. We sat for at least an hour just watching and listening while the rest of the world woke up. Once the sun was up we set out on our days mission to visit as many pagodas as we could manage. We didn’t get far. In fact, we got about 200 yards to the Shwesandaw Pagoda. We climbed up its steep steps and again, the view from the top was incredible. A lot of the larger pagodas, this one included, are currently covered in bamboo scaffolding. This is for restoration work to be carried out in many of the temples following a 6.9 Richter scale earthquake back in 2016! It’s actually amazing how well these pagodas have faired, considering some of them date back to the 11th century. There was once 10,000 pagodas in Bagan and surrounding areas. Now, some 2000 remain but it certainly looks more. They are literally everywhere. Some tiny, hidden behind trees or bushes and other so grand they can be seen from miles away. There are also a few brilliant white temples, one of which we visited near the Kyat Kan Monastery. I spoke to a monk for ages at this particular white temple and he told me that once upon a time, all the temples were white, and that as they have aged, the lime stone plaster has been worn away, leaving behind the red bricks you see on most of the pagodas today. Apparently less than 10 white temples remain. This one appeared to have been recently renovated so it was practically pristine and stood out so brilliantly against the blue sky. It sort of reminded me of Santorini – not that I’ve been, but it’s high up the bucket list! Whilst at the Shwesandaw Pagoda, we met a lovely local kid named Zar Zar. He spoke to us for a while to practise his English and showed us into a nearby pagoda which had a huge reclining Buddha – something which we totally would have missed otherwise. What started off as a quick exchange of “Hello, where are you from?” resulted in a whole crib sheet of handwritten Burmese phrases, our faces being painted with the locally produced sunscreen and an invitation for lunch tomorrow with his family. I love this country!! We carried on about our day, driving through the countryside, finding pagodas and temples and even stumbled across a “weather spoons” where we stopped for lunch of a traditional pickled tea leaf salad. Full up from lunch we headed back to our hotel for a quick afternoon nap, ready to head out again for sunset. We drove out to the Hsin Phyu Shin Monastic Complex for sunset and we were lucky enough to have the whole roof terrace to ourselves. It took us a while to find it – E-Bikes and sandy roads are not the best combination and the hidden staircase was somewhat treacherous but it was definitely worth it. Despite being absolutely shattered from our 4am wake up call, our first day in Bagan was a success. Our second Bagan sunrise we watched from Maha Gudi Temple – we were escorted there by a local as we clearly looked very lost trying to get where we actually wanted to go. Again, the view was spectacular, although this time there were a lot more (very talkative) tourists which sort of spoilt it a little. And there is always one person that takes up half the viewing platform with their flipping camera tripod! We headed straight back to our hotel after sunrise this morning as we had a very important lunch date with Zar Zar and his family. We met him at the Shwesandaw Pagoda at 11am as promised. He had been there since sunrise selling postcards to make money for his family. He hopped on the back of Ceri’s bike and we drove the short distance to his home, a small but very beautiful bamboo house on stilts with a small shop front outside. We were given the warmest welcome by his parents who insisted we called them Mama and Papa – our Bagan family. We were treated to an enormous bowl of rice, chicken, noodles, peanuts, cucumber and hot Chinese tea. It was absolutely delicious, even if there was enough to feed a small army! Mama applied thanaka, a natural local sunscreen made from tree bark mixed with water. We were shown family photos, taught about meditating, shown how Papa makes his bamboo pots and given gifts beyond what we could ever imagine. They were truly one of the most wonderful families I have ever had the pleasure of meeting. If you ever go to Bagan, please let me know as I would love for you to meet them and takes gifts for them from me! On top of all that, we were invited back for dinner that evening. We spent the afternoon riding around again with Zar Zar in tow and watched the sunset at South Guni Temple. The sunset was infinitely better tonight than it was last night and we had a beautiful spot for it. I also got the chance to hang out with my favourite, incredibly fierce and stunningly beautiful souvenir saleswoman! For 17 years old she was amazingly talented at sales pitches and sweet talking people into buy what she had on offer. If I had been “on holiday” I would have bought every single thing she had!! Dinner was another mammoth feast followed by a quite frankly unbelievably strong massage from Mama. Who knew such a tiny woman could be like the Hulk when it comes to a massage. I felt broken after a few minutes! We left for our hotel full of food and full of gifts again and a promise to return again tomorrow morning for one final visit before we left. Our final sunrise was somewhat less successful than the others. Ceri’s back tyre all but came off on the way so we abandoned the bike at the side of the road and she hopped on my bike so we could carry on to our chosen temple. We got to the temple and despite it being recommended to us for a good sunrise, it just wasn’t high enough to be able to see over the trees, even after our (probably illegal) Spidey climbing adventure! We missed sunrise and then had to wait for the bike to be fixed. The mechanic turned up with some glue, elastic bands, scissors and plastic string. I sat and watched him poke elastic bands and plastic string into the puncture with a pair of scissors, seemingly ignoring the fact that they entire tyre was off the wheel. He then proceeded to glue the tyre back in place before pumping it up again and hoping for the best! Thank god we only had this bike for half a day as that thing was lethal. We had totally missed sunrise at this point so we headed on to pick up Zar Zar again and go and visit some more temples! We managed Bulethi Temple, Htilominlo Temple, Alodawpye Temple (which on the face of it looked to be one of the oldest & most beautiful we had seen but photos were banned) and the Sulemani Temple all before lunchtime. We loved ragging those little E-bikes through the fields and wanted so badly to stay longer but our 3 weeks in Myanmar just isn’t enough and time was pressing us to move onto our next destination, Mandalay. We dropped off Zar Zar and said our goodbyes but he and his Father insisted on escorting us home, so they drove with us back to our hotel where we got our bus. The bus to Mandalay was a relatively painless 6 hours and we got dropped off right outside our hotel – Venus Hotel. Another questionable hotel but after the last few days we were so knackered we didn’t care! On our first day we got bike taxi’s out to Mandalay Hill and agreed we would climb rather than drive to the top! Yet again I got the shit helmet which when I took it off and placed it on the bike seat, rolled off and straight under the wheels of a bus and literally exploded! The taxi driver was not happy but I was just glad my head wasn’t in it!!! We started our climb up to the top of the hill in the ridiculous heat and each time we thought we were at the top, there were yet more stairs! The signs kept saying “Summit – This Way” when what they should have said was “LOL – you’re not even close yet!!” 😩 After considerably longer than we anticipated we reached the top and the views over the Ayrewaddy River were worth the climb but after a lot of travelling over the past few days we were exhausted. We started the walk back down and decided to visit Kuthodaw Pagoda. A series of 1774 individual white pagodas, each containing 1 marble slab engraved with the teachings of Buddha, thus making it the largest book in the world. I do love a good book! 😍Day 2 in Mandalay turned out to be pretty intense. We met a guy in the street (yes, it is as dodgy as it sounds) named Win Win who offered to take us on a tour of the city on his bike for the day. For some reason, we agreed to go along for the day, 3 up on a bike to go and see the sights. It was a great day and we ticked loads off the list – Mahamuni Buddha Temple: seeing the 1200 monks collecting their meal for the day at the Mahaganhayon Monastery: Lay Htat Gyi, built by King Nyaung Yan in A.D 963: Daw Gyap Pagoda Complex: Tawagu Pagoda: U Min Thonze Cave Pagoda in Sagaing comprising of 45 Buddha images in a crescent-shaped colonnade carved into the hillside: and finishing off our day wandering across the world famous U Bein Bridge, the longest and oldest teak wood bridge in the world: We arrived back at our hostel at around 6pm with very numb bums and generally pretty knackered from being crushed on a bike all day! Anyone would think the sensible thing to do is get a good night sleep and start again tomorrow on the next adventure. Nope – not us! We set our alarms for 2am so that we could get up and walk to Mandalay Train Station to get our 4am train to Hsipaw. Wandering the streets of Mandalay at 3am with your backpacks on is probably not all that advisable. We boarded our train in plenty of time and got comfy in our upper class carriage. We decided to splash out on this train journey and go for upper class as we would be on the train for a good 12 hours! We spent all of 3500kyats each on our tickets which equates to less than £2. If only all epic train journeys were this cheap! Our train left the station at 4am on the dot and we gently chugged out of Mandalay with the trains horn screaming every few seconds! We carved our way through the beautiful countryside being somewhat flung around by the extremely rocky journey. We made a few stops along the way, got lunch delivered through the window at Pyin Oo Lwin and made our way to the journey highlight, the Goktiek Viaduct. I had tried my hardest to smile sweetly at the driver and see if I could get a ride up front but a load of locals had already beaten me to it so I had to stay out. When we arrived in Hsipaw we had the luxury of a free transfer to our hotel, Mr Charles Hotel. From here we would pick up the first of our 2 treks. We left early in the morning walking directly from our hostel out through the rice paddies, vegetable farms, fields and villages. This particular trek was mostly uphill on the first day then back down again on the second day. Our lunch stop after a pretty tough climb gave us the most beautiful views. As we sat admiring the view and eating tea leaf salad, a local kid came absolutely flying down the hill on his motorbike, skidded into a fairly dangerous U-turn and came back up the hill whilst all the other locals laughed hysterically. It turns out he had no brakes on his bike and this was the only way he could actually stop his bike when going down hill. After 8 hours and 20km we finally arrived at our beautiful home-stay for the night in a fairly large, remote village. We had bucket showers then set off around to the village to meet some of the locals. We had a delicious dinner, a few beers and a really lovely evening, all in preparation for another day of trekking tomorrow. We set off early on a mostly downhill trek back to Hsipaw. We picked up a few stragglers along the way but no one minded – i wanted to take him home with us. We finished up at the beautiful Nam Hu Nwe Waterfall where we had lunch of sticky noodle soup and what are essentially pork scratchings. I was not put off my lunch, despite being nominated to climb the waterfall for the sole purpose of taking a “full monty” photo of the boys. Sorry ladies – it was a Polaroid so i have no evidence of it, unless of course the boys decide to share! We got back to our hostel with enough time for a quick shower before hopping on a bus to Kalaw – our next trekking destination. We arrived in Kalaw at 2am yet again in the pouring rain and got totally ripped off by a taxi driver to our hotel. We checked in and went straight to bed with every intention of getting up in the morning to start our second 2 day trek. When our alarms went off at 7:30, Ceri and I both rolled over, took one look at eachother and went back to sleep. Trekking could wait for another day! We eventually got up and ventured out for lunch, following the ever terrible “MapsMe.” Thanks to that shockingly shite app, we ended up accidentally wandering into a bloody Army barracks. Only us. As we tried to make our retreat a very nice Army man came out, thankfully he was laughing at us. We apologised and told him we were leaving, having got lost on our way to lunch. He told us he knew a shortcut and before we knew it we were climbing through a hedge onto a back road and on to the restaurant. Probably the worlds least secure Army base i have ever encountered. We had a delicious lunch at New Simple Life restaurant – I would high recommend, even if it is Western food. The following morning we set of on our second trek with Uncle Sam’s Treks from Kalaw to Inle Lake. Another 2 days. Another 35km. Although this one was meant to be flat and relatively easy. They lied. It was not flat. Not even close. It was just Ceri and I on this trek with our lovely guide Zan. We were admittedly a little disappointed at first as we wouldn’t get to meet any fun people but actually it turned out to be amazing. We wandered through rice paddies, vegetable fields and villages, only this time, because there was only 2 of us, we could get stuck in. We met a lovely old lady with her grand daughter, harvesting mountain rice in the fields. We got invovled and helped her to harvest the rice plants, clean them all up and pack them into bundles, ready for planting in the rice paddies where they would stay for the next 4 months. She was 60 years old and absolutely beautiful in her traditional Shan headdress. Although she spoke no English and we spoke no Burmese, we had a wonderful experience with her – even if she did have to re-do all the cleaning and bundling we had attempted to do. We carried on walking and came across another group of women, this time knee deep in a paddy field. They waved and laughed with us as we walked past and gestured for us to come and help them. They thought it was beyond hilarious that we actually did go an help. Trousers rolled up, Ceri and I both jumped into the rice paddy game to give it a go. they can plant a row of 10 rice plants in just a few seconds. “Easy” we thought. Wrong. The speed and precision with which they plant rice was impossible to replicate and yet again, they had to redo all the rows we had attempted to plant because there was either not enough rice or it was planted too close together, or too far apart. I think i shall strike “rice farmer” off my resume. We carried on walking until we encountered a very aggressive cow who was determined not to let us pass. This meant we had to climb the rice paddy walls to get away from him and this is where it all went wrong. I fell off a wall face first into a tomato field, which for anyone who knows me knows that is my worst nightmare. I bloody hate tomatoes. Ceri fell off a paddy wall into the actual paddy field and was absolutely soaked. At first i had a real sense of humour failure but then we literally could not stop laughing. Poor Zan must have thought we were insane. We eventually arrived at our home-stay after many detours, had a very public bucket shower and the most delicious dinner, cooked for us by our very own master chef – Zan. Our dinner consisted of chicken curry, cucumber salad (the most delicious i have ever eaten), okra, stir fried kale, green beans and chips!! Yes – chips – like, actual chip shop chips! We were so happy!! As we finished dinner and sat back to relax, we both looked up at the sky and had the same reaction at exactly the same time. I’m starting to think we are morphing into the same person. The stars were some of the most incredible I have ever seen. They even rivalled Port Barton. As we stepped towards the trees to get away from the lights of the house, we were treated to stars of a different kind – glow worms. Tiny little green flashing lights floating around in the trees like real life fairies. It was magic. I was so content going to bed that night, despite the fact that i was sleeping less than 10 feet away from a 1 tonne buffalo and 2 cows which stank to high heaven. Yes, we were sleeping in a barn, but I literally didn’t care! We had another early start in the morning to be at the boat station in time for our rice across Inle Lake. More rice paddies, more incredible mountain views, more beautiful local people, learning to blow bubbles from the stem of a jojoba plant, seeing a beautiful little water snake in one of the rice paddies and the re-introduction of our favourite game – “Guess the Card.” Ceri nailed it. That’s 1 all now!
After about 15km, we stopped at a rest stop for a snack and some green tea. There was a group of Burmese lads sat next to us who appeared to be in some sort of band. They had a guitar and an incredible collection of voices between them. One of the “band members” was an ex professional footballer for Myanmar and another a local tattoo artist. It was so nice to sit and listen to them sing while the torrential rain drifted towards us.
We had to sacrifice the last leg of our trek in the name of safety as the rain had made the tracks too dangerous, so we paid 1000kyats each and piled into the back of a pick up truck to take us down the rest of the mountain. We had a delicious lunch and then hopped in our small wooden boat to take us almost the entire length (South to North) of the exceptionally beautiful Inle Lake. We checked into our hostel, Ostello Bello and headed out to a highly recommended spot for dinner – Innlay Hut. The owner is Eminem’s biggest fan (bigger fan than Stan.) The walls are decorated with Eminem related pictures and quotes, his music blares out across the restaurant and the owner tries his hardest to emulate him in every way. The curry they serve is also incredible which is a double bonus!! Our final full day in Myanmar we hopped back in a boat for a tour of Inle Lake and some of its offerings. We didnt get as far as we hoped, but we were able to see local cigar making, longyis being made on a loom, scarves being made from lotus fibres. I really wanted to buy you one Toria, being that it was made from lotus flowers, but at 190USD for a tiny scarf it was a bit out of my price range. You got another present though so all is not lost. The reason the lotus items are so expensive is because the fibres have to be harvested by hand. One lady sits with the stems, cutting them into inch long pieces. As she pulls the pieces apart, the fibres stretch out between the 2 pieces and she rolls this fibre into a fine twine. She then rolls this together onto a long spindle which is then used to weave the fabric together.
The final piece is not even all that pretty, somewhat resembling burlap cloth. During our ride home across the lake we were able to see the famous Inle Lake fishermen and their unique way of fishing. They paddle the boat oars with their feet, whilst standing up and tending to the nets with their hands. I wouldn’t even be able to stand up on the back of one of those boats, let alone on one foot, paddling with the other and fishing with my hands. It really is a sight to see.
Sadly for us, Inle Lake was our final stop on our Burmese adventure and what an adventure it has been. We have been blessed with so many incredible experiences and memories and I’m so glad we got to visit this beautiful country before it becomes too “touristy” and spoilt. The Burmese people are some of the most kind, beautiful and generous people I have ever had the pleasure of spending time with and if anyone is thinking about going to Myanmar, please please do. It has been an absolute gem in my grand adventure.