Paradise in Palawan

So I’ve been a little off the grid for the past week or so be it due to the fact I have been on a boat cruising the the Bacuit Archipeligo in Northern Palawan, staying in a hostel with no electricity except for between 6pm and midnight or the simple fact that numb nuts dropped her phone in the sea on day one of said island hopping adventures! 🤦🏽‍♀️ Thankfully I’m in Asia so bucket loads of rice are on hand and I’m, for the most part, back online….ish. A 5 day digital detox is really quite liberating! The only reason I got so excited about being able to share pictures is because I want everyone to see what I have seen and realise just how stunningly beautiful these islands are! I have been so spoilt this past week! 

I left Manila to fly south to Coron with the much criticised Cebu Pacific airline. They were actually great – no delays, no issues so can’t be too annoyed at paying £40 odd for my flight including 20kg of luggage which is already tortuous to carry around every where I go! I would legitimately have been happy if they had lost it! 😂 I arrived in Coron and had that horrific “Inbetweeners” movie moment of pulling up outside a shockingly shit looking hostel and being told this was where I was staying. Note to self – when booking hostels, check google earth before agreeing that it seems like a really great price for a private room. For the next 2 nights I now lived in what I can only describe as a swamp/rubbish dump/entirely unsafe- looking paper house on stilts.  The hostel itself, RB Transient, turned out to be fine in the grand scheme of things but the walk to get to it was what made me want to cry every time I had to do it. I was also less of a fan of the giant cockroach that had taken up residence on the wall. Give me Lucky the flea riddled cat any day! (Update – Lucky now has her flea collar!) 

Day 1 in Coron I decided to do an island hopping tour which would take me to the famous Kayangan Lake (allegedly the cleanest lake in Asia) Twin Lagoon, Coral Gardens, Siete Pecados, Atwayan Beach, Smith Beach and Hidden Lagoon. The snorkelling at the Coral Gardens was some of the best I have ever seen. So colourful and full of fish! And I saw Nemo! Perfect way to start the day!  We cruised around some more on our bangkha before mooring up alongside a rickety old wooden walkway clinging precariously to the jagged cliffs.  We off loaded and embarked on a short but surprisingly tough trek almost directly up and over the cliffs.  There below us was the glimmer of turquoise green through the trees – Kayangan Lake. Dubbed the cleanest lake in Asia and perfect for a swim after a hike in the Philippine sun! Crystal clear waters, jagged limestone cliffs, bamboo rafts. Sadly just a few too many tourists for my liking but unavoidable! Also no photos to share as I left my phone on the boat! If only I was always that sensible! 😑 

My second day in Coron I clearly decided I had not had enough sun (or had had too much and wasn’t thinking straight) and decided to walk to the top of Mount Tapyas. 700 odd steps to the top which I now find out is only 190m above sea level. Let me tell you, in 35 degree heat and flip flops it felt like 10 times that! And I didn’t even have my Fitbit on! What a waste. The view from the top, however was far from a waste. Despite a storm threatening all afternoon, I made it to the top before the rain and it really was beautiful. I was also a fan of Coron’s attempt at their own Hollywood sign! 

At 5pm I had to head to the TAO Office in town for the briefing before my 5-day boat trip to El Nido left in the morning. I sat down at the table with the others and knew I had made the right decision in booking this trip. A rum cocktail appeared in front of me as if by magic. 🙌🏼 We were briefed and preordered our booze for the week which proved to be way more stressful than it needed to be! First world problems! 

At 8am the next morning we arrived at the Port Authority to start our 220km, 5 day, 4 night cruise through paradise to El Nido on their custom built TAO Bangkha boat.  I literally couldn’t have dreamt how amazing this 5 days would be! We cruised around islands, we snorkelled, we ate, we swam, we kayaked, we ate some more, we drank (a lot), we laughed, we celebrated an engagement, we ate and drank even more. We were quite literally in paradise. Our on board chef “Magic Mike” cooked us breakfast, lunch and dinner every day along with copious amounts of snacks and iced tea. The food was a combination of “Filipino Power” also known as rice and fresh caught jack fish & sweet lips (or whatever other fish they could catch or buy from local fisherman) pumpkin & coconut curry and cucumber salads. On one day we caught a tuna fishing off the back of the boat and within less than 10 minutes we had the freshest tuna sashimi you could possible ever hope to eat.  Each night we were lead to an incredible TAO base camp where we slept in beautifully hand crafted “tuka huts” on the beach. Whilst we washed away the days stresses with a refreshingly cold bucket shower, the TAO Lost Boys were setting up our beds and mosquito nets for us. 5* luxury beach accommodation just does not get better than this if you ask me. This is an island we stopped off at on the day my phone first came out of the rice again. Just to give you an idea of the type of paradise I’m talking about. 😍

I fell in love with each island we visited – each time thinking there was no way the TAO Lost Boys would be able to better it the next night – and each night we were treated to an island base camp more beautiful than the last! On our 3rd night we stayed at the TAO main base camp. It is actually mainland Palawan but inaccessible by road and so secluded you just wouldn’t know. This is also the location of their TAO farm, where they grow all their own organic produce which is used for all our meals. They have pigs, ducks, chickens, an organic vegetable garden, their own rice paddy, palm trees with hundreds of coconuts. This place is entirely self sufficient. But not only this this, they make products to sell also! Hand pressed virgin coconut oil, coconut and lemon grass shampoo and soap, clothes, jewellery. This place and this company are just so incredible there are no words. A travel company yes, but so much more than that. Their TAO Foundation builds school for local communities. They provide education regarding sustainable fishing and farming techniques. They offered humanitarian support following Typhoon Haiyan in November 2013 – providing over 150 fishing boats to replace those lost in the storm, food and building materials. They encourage local children to keep the beaches clean with the promise of a new pair of slippers (flipflops). They provide jobs for the family members of the Tao Lost Boys sewing the bed sheets and pillow cases, massage therapy and sewing the TAO uniforms. I can vouch for how amazing the massages are – I had 2! I could go on for days about how amazing Tao are but instead I shall just urge you to book a flight and come and experience it for yourself! 

After 5 days we arrived in El Nido and desperate for anything that wasn’t fish or rice, we arranged to met for dinner at Trattoria Altrove in the town to treat ourselves to pizza. Never in my life has pizza and wine felt like such a luxury. The following day was spent by the beach recovering before getting the bus to Port Barton – but she has a special place in my heart so will get her very own blog post! 💚

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