So I finally escaped Saigon after spending far longer there than I anticipated and no longer willing to wait for my new debit card. We hopped on a sleeper bus (in the middle of the day – cue: Nap Time) and set off for the seaside town of Mui Ne, about 2 hours East of Saigon. Being short, sleeper buses are just perfect for me so I had a lovely nap on the way there and got dropped off directly outside our hostel – “Mui Ne Backpacker Village.” Although our room was my ever dreaded “12 bed dorm” it wasn’t too bad, although the aircon didn’t work. We had a nice bar with good food and a pool! Normally I would turn my nose up at a pool when the beach is so close by but I was actually so glad to have a few days where, for once, every item I own isn’t covered in sand. The hostel did all my laundry for me to get rid of the bed bugs – bonus! I headed out to explore the beach – which didn’t take long. It was a bit naff (I still maintain I have been spoilt beyond repair by the beaches in the Philippines!) The town is very much aimed at Russian tourists so a lot of Russian restaurants and really super fancy resorts. Curse the backpacking budget. The next morning was a super early start – 4am to be exact. Jumped in the back of a jeep and drove out to the “White Sand Dunes” of Mui Ne to watch the sunrise. What they don’t tell you is you have to pay an extra £30 for someone to buzz you up to the top of the dunes on an ATV. Backpacker budget fail! So off came the flip flops and I started trekking to the very top of the soft sand dunes. Really very beautiful but less so when you’re dripping with sweat (even at 5am) sand and dust is sticking to every part of you and your calves feel like they’re on fire!! Sadly (or perhaps typically my luck) there was no “sunrise” as such because it was too cloudy so it just sort of got light. We left the white dunes and headed next for the “Red Sand Dunes” also in Mui Ne. This time with views of the ocean which helps to distract from the mounds of rubbish left everywhere. Such a shame but so true of so many tourist spots in all the places I’ve visited so far.
After our jaunt at the sand dunes we headed to the local “Fishing Village” where it was still early enough that we could watch all the fishermen bringing in their catch and selling it on the shore. Such a simple life yet so fascinating to watch it all play out in front of you. They fish from traditional boats that look more like bowls. Generally speaking they are like giant woven baskets but most of the ones we saw here were made of sturdier plastic! All was well until I saw a lady but a whole bowl full of tiny dead sea-horses and it made me really sad. I understand that this is people’s way of life and this is normal for them….but the sea horses! 😔
Our last stop of the day was the aptly named “Fairy Stream.” An ankle deep stream with a soft red river bed flowing through the bamboo forests, limestone cliffs and out to sea. You can walk all the way up stream, through my mystical rock formations on either side and ever ride an ostrich if you like – I never said it wasn’t random. As a believer in fairies, I can totally see why this stream has earned its name – it really was beautiful! So much adventure for one day and still back in time for breakfast at 9am followed by another well earned nap and day by the pool! The remaining 2 days in Mui Ne disappeared in a spoilt blur of hangovers, multiple stolen phones and too many dramas for my liking. Time to move on again. Next stop – Dalat.
Another 5 hours on a miserable hot sweaty bus and we arrived in the (thankfully) freezing cold Da Lat. Well, when I say freezing, it was 19 degrees which felt arctic compared to the 37 degrees we had left behind this morning. We ditched our bags and headed out to explore the beautiful French-inspired town. We wandered around the lake, framed by misty mountains.
We then accidentally stumbled into the Da Lat night market….as if we could have missed it! The place was vast, rammed full of people selling everything imaginable. Fruit and veg I have seen since I left home including grapes, strawberries, broccoli and more avacados than even I could ever eat! It was here I had my first taste of “Vietnamese Pizza,” essentially a rice paper base with scrambled egg, onions and various forms of unidentified shredded meat, topped off with chilli sauce, mayo and all wrapped up. Really delicious actually, so long as you don’t spend too much time thinking about the unidentified meat….
The following day we decided to head to “The Valley of Love,” essentially a type of botanical gardens all themed around love! Heart shaped everything – a heart shaped tunnel of love, a heart shaped maze, heart shaped topiary and beautiful scenery. We wandered through the maze and thanks to my still excellent navigation skills (Thanks Dad!) we made it through without getting lost. We paddled evil looking swan pedalos round the lake, strolled through the butterfly garden and visited the Japanese Gardens before a massive storm rolled in and we were forced into a taxi in the pouring rain.
The next day was our grand Da Lat adventure to all its waterfalls. We set off early in the morning and first stop was a “weasel coffee” plantation. Seriously beautiful scenery and some of the best coffee I have ever tasted, despite the fact it has been shat out by a weasel, if you’ll pardon my French. We then carried on our journey to Elephant Falls, 30km south of Da Lat. We arrived and there was hardly anyone there – just how I like it. With all the rain from the past few days the falls were raging and we got absolutely soaked, but I guess you should expect that when you crawl into a cave behind the falls! 🤔
Time to move on again – so much to see and so little time! Next. Stop was “Pongour Falls,” a further 25km south. Again – they did not disappoint. A beautiful tiered waterfall, 40m high and 100m wide with an amazing pool at the bottom to swim in! You know me – any chance for a swim so I stripped off and went in for a dip! Another storm was making its way back around to us so we jumped back in the car and headed back to the city. The last stop on our adventure day was “The Crazy House” in Da Lat. Designed by Vietnamese architect Đặng Việt Nga, drawing inspiration from Gaudi, although to me it resembles something of a cross between Dr Seuss, the Flintstones and Dali. We spend ages climbing it’s weird and wonderful “staircases” and exploring all the various different themes rooms you can actually stay in!
Our time in Da Lat has come to an end so we left and headed a little further north to Nha Trang which was entirely uneventful, full of Russians and generally could have been anywhere in Spain, not Vietnam. One day stop over then onwards to Hoi An….I had the highest of hopes! 🤞🏽